Day 2: Roskilde to Odense
Self-driving: 2 hours
Attractions: Roskilde Cathedral, Roskilde Palace, St. Catherine’s Priory, Roskilde, Skt. Laurentius, Viking Ship Museum, Odense Old Town (Odense City Hall, St. Alban’s Church, Odense Cathedral – St. Canute’s Church, Odense Theater)
2.1 Breakfast in Roskilde
Korn – To Go Roskilde
Address: Skomagergade 2, 4000 Roskilde
Hours: 09:30–18:00
Price: 90 DKK per person
Rating: 4 stars
We woke up too early, and many places were still closed. We found a supermarket, Meny, which was open, and there was a bakery inside where we bought some bread. We waited until 9:30 and then went to this store to order a few open-faced sandwiches. The taste was fine but not exceptional. Also, it wasn’t too pleasant to have cold sandwiches for breakfast.
2.2 Roskilde Cathedral
Address: Domkirkepladsen 3, 4000 Roskilde
Official website: [removed]
Hours: Refer to the official website
Time Spent: 1.5 hours
Rating: 5 stars
Parking: There are street parking spaces in front of the cathedral, which were available early in the off-season at around 9 AM. The first two hours are free, but you still need to register your car plate at a nearby machine, which has an English option. You can also use an app for this.
We strolled around Roskilde Old Town at sunset. The cathedral had already closed, but the light at sunset made it great for photos of the exterior.
The cathedral, built in the 12th century, is the first Romanesque building constructed with bricks. It blends Gothic and Romanesque architectural styles and later became the first Gothic cathedral in Scandinavia. It serves as the official burial place for Danish monarchs. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The red brick structure inside is magnificent. The cathedral is quite large, housing the tombs of various monarchs. Different rooms have unique decorations and finely crafted tombs. It’s worth the visit.
There is a model of the planned tomb of the current Danish Queen on display, though the actual tomb is located in the church under a glass cover.
The second floor, less crowded, is an excellent spot for portraits with the red brick background. I recommend taking a walk up there.
2.3 Roskilde Old Town
Roskilde Palace
Address: Stændertorvet 3A, 4000 Roskilde
The yellow historic building has two wings: one houses the bishop’s office and the royal residence, while the other part is home to the contemporary art museum. When we visited, it appeared to be closed, so we only took pictures of the exterior.
Skt. Laurentius
Address: Stændertorvet, 4000 Roskilde
Website: [removed]
Hours: 10:00–16:00
This medieval building is now a historical museum. Some parts of the structure, dating back to the 12th century, can still be visited.
Visitors can also climb the 1500-year-old bell tower and enjoy a panoramic view of Roskilde Old Town.
St. Catherine’s Priory, Roskilde
Address: Sankt Peders Stræde 8E, 4000 Roskilde
Website: [removed]
This priory was closed to the public during our visit. It seems that advance booking is required, so check the website for more details if you are interested.
2.4 Viking Ship Museum
Address: Vindeboder 12, 4000 Roskilde
Ticket Price: 125 DKK
Time Spent: 1–2 hours
Rating: 4.5 stars
Roskilde was the center of European maritime trade from 750–1100 AD, and five Viking ships were discovered in this area over 1000 years later. Staff spent 25 years reconstructing the ships, and two of them were used for trade (built in Denmark and Norway), while two military ships were longer and narrower for fast movement and could carry 65–70 soldiers. The largest ship was a warship built in Dublin.
There is a movie that provides detailed information about these five Viking ships. Plenty of text descriptions are available during the visit. There are also workshops outside where staff are restoring ship fragments. The outdoor area includes demonstrations of Viking shipbuilding.
We had lunch at the museum’s restaurant, rated 4 stars, with an average cost of 130 DKK. It was rainy outside, so I ordered a stew with rice, but it tasted rather plain. The marinated fish was decent, and it came with a quiche.
2.5 Roskilde to Odense
We drove along Route 160, passing fields of beautiful rapeseed flowers. We took a detour to snap a few photos. We also crossed a toll bridge, one of the few in Denmark. The toll cost was 275 DKK, and payments could be made via card or cash at the blue Kort lanes.
Originally, we planned to visit the Trelleborg Museum, but due to the rain, we decided to skip it.
2.6 Strolling Through Odense Old Town
Time Spent: 1–2 hours
Rating: 5 stars
Odense is a fairy-tale town, home to Hans Christian Andersen. There are many sculptures of characters from his stories scattered throughout the old town. We didn’t actively search for them but took photos of a few. Only later did we realize these sculptures were connected to Andersen’s fairy tales.
In the evening, we took a leisurely stroll around the old town. The atmosphere is very ancient and charming.
Odense City Hall
Address: Flakhaven 2, 5000 Odense
This beautiful building was constructed between 1881 and 1883 in the Italian Gothic style. It stands next to two other beautiful churches. This area became one of my favorite spots during both morning and evening visits.
St. Alban’s Church
Address: Adelgade 1, 5000 Odense
Odense Cathedral – St. Canute’s Church
Address: Klingenberg 19, 5000 Odense
This Gothic cathedral dates back to the 11th century and is named after the Danish king. The crypt houses the remains of Denmark’s last Viking king, St. Canute.
We stumbled upon an open-air market that sold everyday items like cheese.
Odense Theater
Address: Jernbanegade 21, 5000 Odense
Another ancient red-brick building in the town.
2.6 Dinner in Odense
Restaurant HOS
Address: Kongensgade 65, 5000 Odense
Website: [removed]
Price: 600 DKK per person
Rating: 4 stars
We made a reservation in advance for this highly rated restaurant. The environment was elegant, and the service was excellent, with an open kitchen. We ordered a three-course tasting menu.
The first course was puff pastry filled with 14-month-old aged cheese, topped with mushroom powder. It was savory and decent.
The second dish featured Icelandic fish roe with cream cheese and celery, served with a waffle. Although the combination sounded odd, it tasted surprisingly good.
The main course was flounder, served with buttermilk sauce, green bean sauce, pickled cucumbers, and roasted vegetables. The fish was fresh and the flavors balanced well. It was highly rated.
The pork was overly salty, and the sauce was also too salty. The only part I liked was the light and fresh white asparagus.
The dessert featured rhubarb, adding a tangy crunch to the sweet white chocolate mascarpone and smooth sorbet. It was a unique pairing, and while the herbs added didn’t seem to match, they weren’t overwhelming. Overall, it was enjoyable.
The banana bread was topped with crispy walnuts and sweet walnut sauce, with a delicate sprinkle of shaved cheese. It was light and airy, almost like the octopus balls from a street food market. I particularly liked this dish for its clever design.
2.7: Odense to Ribe
Self-Drive: 2 hours 17 minutes
Sights: H.C. Andersen Museum, Hans Christian Andersen’s Childhood Home, Egeskov Castle
Originally, this route was supposed to pass through Middelfart, but due to bad weather and to save time, we decided to skip it.
Day 3 Odense to Ribe
Driving: 2 hours 17 minutes
Attractions: H.C. Andersen’s House, Hans Christian Andersen’s Childhood Home, Egeskov Slot
Originally, this route was supposed to pass through Middelfart, but due to bad weather and to save time, we decided to skip it.
3.1 H.C. Andersen Museum
Address: H.C. Andersen Haven 1, 5000 Odense C
Opening Hours: 09:00–18:00
Duration: 2 hours
Ticket Price: 165 DKK, advance reservation required, including a visit to the childhood home of H.C. Andersen.
Rating: 5 stars
The most important attraction in Odense is the H.C. Andersen Museum, which is also Andersen’s former residence. Keep in mind that the museum is not located at the same place as Andersen’s childhood house. The ticket time you choose is for the museum’s entry. We booked a 9 AM slot, and there were already some people waiting before the time.
The museum has a high point outside, and I walked around while waiting for the opening. On the other side of the street is the exterior wall of Andersen’s childhood home.
Once inside, each visitor is given a headset, and there is an option to choose Chinese. The audio guide is a must, as the entire tour is guided with it. I noticed some Japanese and Korean visitors did not pick up the headsets and seemed to miss out on a lot of the details during the tour.
The headset provides information based on your location in the museum. It was very fun to hear and see how things were anthropomorphized, reflecting Andersen’s imagination. Andersen had a good upbringing and a rich imagination. He loved to travel. When he first arrived in Copenhagen, his stories were not recognized, and after many struggles, he finally became famous. The story of the ugly duckling turning into a swan reflected his own experiences.
Andersen traveled 30 times in 9 years, and the museum displays souvenirs collected from different countries, often explained in an anthropomorphic way. There are also items related to his imperfect love life, which inspired many of his stories and poems.
The museum showcases Andersen’s autobiographies, travel journals, novels, plays, poems, manuscripts, and his will from 1860. It is said that one winter when Andersen could not go outside, he made a screen from various magazines, which shows his creativity.
The last section of the museum is interactive, with scenes from his stories. For example, in “The Little Match Girl,” there is a button you can press to light a match and see an imagined story unfold. In “The Emperor’s New Clothes,” standing in front of a screen makes you appear to be wearing new clothes, and you can even dance. Other scenes like “The Princess and the Pea” and “The Little Mermaid” are also included.
At the end, visitors can also explore Andersen’s childhood home, which has only a few small rooms that give insight into his living conditions at the time, but not many displays.
3.2 Hans Christian Andersen’s Childhood Home
Address: Munkemøllestræde 3, 5000 Odense
Opening Hours: 10:00–17:00
Duration: 15 minutes
Rating: 4 stars
This childhood home of Hans Christian Andersen is more residential, offering a sense of what it was like when he was young. It displays typical home furnishings and the atmosphere of his early life. The small backyard is full of flowers and plants, making it quite pleasant.
I had a sausage from 7-Eleven for lunch in the city after this visit.
3.3 Egeskov Castle
Address: Egeskov Gade 22, 5772 Kværndrup
Opening Hours: 10:00–19:00
Duration: 3-4 hours
Ticket Price: 265 DKK, includes both the castle interior and outdoor areas. A separate garden ticket is available for 225 DKK.
Rating: 4.5 stars
Located about 1.5 hours’ drive from Andersen’s hometown of Odense, this castle is surrounded by a moat and has beautiful gardens. The site also features unique exhibitions and a children’s play area, making it ideal for family visits.
That day was a “motorcycle-free entry” day, so if you arrived by motorcycle, you could enter for free. We saw many motorcyclists on the way, which made the atmosphere quite lively.
The castle grounds are vast and surrounded by a moat. The exterior looks beautiful when the weather is good. Inside, there are many exhibits related to hunting, as well as various rooms displaying furniture, living rooms, bedrooms, and more.
The top floor of the castle has been turned into a toy museum with numerous old toys and puppets on display. It’s speculated that some of the puppets have been in the castle since its construction, though no one knows who placed them there.
The castle’s gardens are stunning, especially the paths along the moat, perfect for taking portrait photos. The garden also features various entertainment projects, including tree-based installations that were not so easy to navigate.
Inside the different buildings, you will find themed exhibitions such as clothing from 1850-1900, bicycles, cars, and planes, as well as fire trucks and camping equipment. There is even a LEGO ambulance display.
Before leaving, I had a hamburger and sausage in the castle garden to satisfy my hunger.
After leaving the castle, we headed straight to Ribe, where we saw large fields of rapeseed along the way.
3.4 Dinner in Ribe
Finding food in Ribe was quite a journey. Firstly, it was raining and chilly in the evening, so I wasn’t in the mood to take pictures. Secondly, the two restaurants I initially planned to visit had no seats available without a reservation. In the end, we settled on an Italian restaurant to fill our stomachs. The two restaurants we could not eat at required reservations: Restaurant Backhaus ApS (address: Grydergade 12, 6760 Ribe) and Weis Stue (address: Torvet 2, 6760 Ribe).
Pinocchio
Address: Overdammen 7, 6760 Ribe
Average Price: 220 DKK
Rating: 4.5 stars
This is an Italian-style restaurant. We ordered a salad with fish, shrimp, and fish roe, which was light and delicious. The steak was served with mushrooms, meat sauce on a tomato base, with a side salad and fries. It was very good, though it would have been perfect with rice.
3.5 Accommodation in Ribe
Ribe Sønderport Bed & Kitchen
Address: 39 Sønderportsgade, 6760 Ribe
Price: 1000 DKK
Rating: 4.5 stars
This is a guesthouse in the old town, and breakfast is not included. Parking is about a 6-minute walk away at the Centrum Syd Parking lot, but the overall location is quite convenient.
