Chengdu to Lhasa Self-Driving Tour: G318 Guide & Tips

Table of Contents

Introduction

In June 2014, I finally set foot on China’s Highway 318 and embarked on a month‐long journey through Tibet. Having seldom traveled extensively within China, this was my first in-depth exploration of a region in my own country. For a first experience of this magnitude, I had to choose Tibet.

I did not mind the long, bumpy journeys, the arduous mountain crossings, or even the inevitable headaches at high altitudes—as long as the scenery was breathtaking. The pristine quality of Tibet, surrounded by towering snow-capped mountains, instills a deep appreciation for the grandeur of nature. The dynamic flutter of colorful prayer flags and the devout acts of worship by the faithful fully showcase Tibet’s unique character.

I finally began writing this travelogue over a year after the trip because my recent visit to Iceland reminded me of many aspects of Tibet, rekindling my longing for it. Upon returning home, the first thing I did was to pull out my travel notes from Tibet and relive that extraordinary journey.

Itinerary

Day 1 – One-Day Tour in Chengdu
Attractions: Wuhou Shrine, Du Fu Thatched Cottage, Jinli Ancient Street
Lunch: Jiangbei Laodao Restaurant

Day 2 – Chengdu to Moxi Town at Hailuo Valley (350 KM)
Attractions: Dadu River, Moxi Town
Accommodation: Gongga Impression, Moxi Town

Day 3 – From Hailuo Valley to Xinduqiao (220 KM)
Attractions: Hailuo Valley, Red Stone Beach

Day 4 – Xinduqiao to Litang to Daocheng (376 KM)
Attractions: Gaoersi Mountain (4,412 m), Jianziwan Mountain (4,659 m), Kazila Mountain (4,718 m), Zhaga Divine Mountain
Accommodation: Desha Hotel, Daocheng

Day 5 – One-Day Tour in Yading, Overnight in Daocheng (110 KM)
Attractions: Yading Hiking
Accommodation: Desha Hotel, Daocheng

Day 6 – Daocheng to Ben Zilan to Feilai Temple (with Meili Snow Mountain in view) (450 KM)
Attractions: Mayonggou, the Great Bend of the Jinsha River
Accommodation: Wakaboge Hotel, Feilai Temple

Day 7 – Feilai Temple to Mangkang County (209 KM)
Attractions: Sunrise at Meili Snow Mountain, Official Entry into Tibet, Naxi Ethnic Village, Salt Fields, Lancang River
Accommodation: Tianlu Hotel, Mangkang County

Day 8 – Mangkang County to Basu (359 KM)
Attractions: Lau Mountain (4,868 m), Rumei Town (formerly Zhuka Town), Dongda Mountain (5,008 m), “99 Bends”, Yala Mountain (4,658 m)
Accommodation: Sanjiangyuan Hotel, Basu

Day 9 – Basu to Bomi (219 KM)
Attractions: Walai Village, Anjiula Mountain (4,475 m), Ranwu Lake, Midui Glacier
Accommodation: Gesanghua Hotel, Bomi

Day 10 – Bomi to Linzhi (235 KM)
Attractions: Tongmai Pass, Palongzang Bujian, Lulang
Accommodation: Xincheng Business Hotel, Linzhi

Day 11 – Linzhi to Lhasa (497 KM)
Attractions: Xiuba Ancient Castle, Mila Mountain (5,013 m), Lhasa River
Accommodation: Balangxue Hotel

Day 12 – Lhasa
Attractions: Potala Palace, Princess Wencheng Performance
Accommodation: Balangxue Hotel

Day 13 – Lhasa
Attractions: Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street
Accommodation: Balangxue Hotel

Day 14 to Day 27 – Ali Dabei Route (Separate post)

Day 28 – Lhasa
Attractions: Drepung Monastery
Accommodation: Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Hotel

Day 29 – Lhasa
Attractions: Qusang Temple, Pabongka, Sera Monastery
Accommodation: Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Hotel

Day 30 – Return from Lhasa to Beijing

Guide: Border Permit Application

When applying for a border permit in Beijing, the rules vary slightly between districts. In Haidian District, the application is processed on the fourth floor of the Haidian Exit-Entry Administration Hall.

Required Documents:

Identity Card
An introduction letter from your employer (to verify current employment)
An application form (download it online in advance; forms are not available on-site. A printing and copying center on the second floor of the Exit-Entry Administration Hall can be used to print the form)
Two one-inch photos (either in black and white or color)

As long as all required documents are complete, the processing is very efficient.

Several Tibetan regions require a border permit. It is recommended to include endorsements for all applicable areas so that a change in itinerary does not result in denied entry due to a missing endorsement. The main regions include:

Shigatse Region: Zhongba County, Saga County, Nielamu County (Zhangmu), Dingri County, Kangma County, Yadong County, Gangba County, Dingjie County, and Jilong County
Linzhi Region: Motuo County, Lang County, Milin County, and Zayü County
Shannan Region: Langkazi County, Cuona County, Luozha County, and Longzi County
Ngari Region: Pulan County, Zhada County, Ritu County, and Gar County

For example, visiting Everest Base Camp requires an endorsement for the Shigatse Region; a trip to Mount Kailash requires an endorsement for the Ngari Region; and for the Ali Dabei route, endorsements for both the Shigatse and Ngari Regions are necessary.

Chartered and Carpooling Information

Driving from Chengdu along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway to Lhasa is notorious for its challenging road conditions. When the number of travelers is small, hiring a chartered vehicle is a preferable option. I once discovered an outdoor travel group called “Western Free Outdoor Club” online. Although reviews were few, the itinerary looked promising. After discussing the details with the coordinator, I paid a deposit, signed the contract a day early in Chengdu, paid the full amount, and met the driver. Everything went smoothly.

The company operates five to six departures per month, allowing you to choose a schedule that suits you. The owner, who also runs this route, is reputed by fellow travelers to be extremely personable, though I did not meet him personally. The other drivers are experienced professionals who work with the company on a long-term basis and typically drive their own well-worn Jeeps.

If you are interested in carpooling, please contact the coordinator using the available contact information.

In addition to the charter fee, you are responsible for your own accommodation and meal expenses. The driver usually dines with the group, and the costs for lodging and meals are split evenly among all participants. Accommodation standards are generally determined collectively, though they typically follow the driver’s recommendations.

A word of caution for self-driving travelers: once you enter Tibet, do not exceed the speed limit. Many areas will issue a time-stamped notice if you are speeding; even if you do, you must wait until the designated time at the next checkpoint to proceed, or you risk a heavy fine.

Pre-Trip Preparations

Traveling domestically does not require extensive preparations – language is not a barrier and the currency remains the same. However, when heading to high-altitude regions, it is essential to be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions. Although it is June, you may experience bright sunshine, overcast skies, heavy rain, and even hail within a single day. In addition to summer T-shirts, it is advisable to bring several long-sleeved garments, fleece jackets, and windbreaker rain jackets. The latter are particularly useful for protection against both wind and rain. In some cases, one pair of trousers may not be enough, so consider packing an extra pair of thermal undergarments.

Clothing and Sun Protection

Effective sun protection is crucial at high altitudes. Be sure to pack sunscreen and sunglasses; a sun hat is also recommended based on personal preference.

Personal Care Items

Although accommodations along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway are generally modest, the route is well established. It is advisable to carry a few face masks for situations where lodging conditions are substandard.

Lip Balm – an Essential Item: By the mid-section of the journey, your lips may become chapped. While some may argue that lip balm is available on the road, restrooms or pharmacies are not always accessible, and if found, the quality is often questionable. It is best to bring a reliable lip balm with you.

Additionally, carrying some toilet paper and wet wipes is recommended. While many parts of the route are modern, some remote villages might lack these amenities. Alternatively, these items can be purchased in Chengdu before departure.

Photography Equipment

For photography enthusiasts, equipping your smartphone with a fisheye lens can create unique effects. However, a DSLR camera is indispensable for travel. A tripod is necessary for capturing long-exposure shots, the Milky Way, and sunrise or sunset scenes. If you forget a remote shutter release, you can set your camera to a two-second self-timer mode. Recently acquired neutral density (ND) and polarizing filters have proven useful – the polarizing filter enhances the clarity of reflections (for example, in the water before the Potala Palace), and the ND filter facilitates long-exposure shots of flowing water during the day.

Other Essentials

For those who prefer hot water, a thermos is highly recommended. In accordance with local customs, hot water is generally available along the route, which is particularly comforting in the cold weather of high-altitude regions.

It goes without saying that you should always carry your identity card, border permit, and cash. These documents are frequently checked at various checkpoints once you enter Tibetan areas; for example, in Shigatse and Ngari regions, your border permit may be verified several times.

Altitude Sickness Considerations

Altitude sickness is a significant concern, with its severity varying from person to person. There is a saying that “altitude sickness affects the overweight rather than the slim, the tall rather than the short, and males rather than females,” though this does not hold true in all cases. If you are worried about altitude sickness, it is advisable to take a train to Lhasa or choose a chartered vehicle to travel at a slower pace, allowing your body time to acclimate. Flying directly might not give your body sufficient time to adjust, potentially worsening the symptoms.

During a previous stay on a nearly 4,000-meter plateau in Peru, the only symptom I experienced was a mild headache, which reassured me that my reaction to altitude sickness is relatively mild. Nonetheless, I ensured proper rest and avoided strenuous exercise during the week leading up to the trip. Although some suggest taking Rhodiola rosea before ascending, I did not find it necessary given my mild symptoms. While some travel companions suffered severe headaches and sleepless nights, our guide’s Tibetan medicine proved effective.

In my experience, a single hike at a new altitude is usually sufficient to alleviate the symptoms of altitude sickness once you descend. For example, after visiting destinations such as Daocheng Yading or circumambulating Mount Kailash, the discomfort typically subsides. The only time I experienced significant altitude sickness was at a mountain pass above 4,000 meters; the excitement induced by the breathtaking scenery led to overexertion and temporary breathlessness. Once I regained my composure, the symptoms diminished. It is therefore imperative not to overexert or become overly excited when traveling at high altitudes.

Departure

Taking a train from Beijing to Chengdu is a leisurely affair—reading a book while gently swaying along the journey is quite pleasant. Some say that trains heading to Sichuan offer delicious Sichuanese snacks; however, I once saw a set meal advertised at 38 RMB that was supposed to include braised pork, yet it contained only a few sesame-sized pieces of fatty meat. Truly disappointing.

Chengdu Impressions – Wuhou Shrine

Known as the “Sacred Land of the Three Kingdoms,” Wuhou Shrine was designated a National First-Class Museum in 2008 and is one of the world’s most influential Three Kingdoms heritage sites.

Covering an area of 230 acres, the site is divided into the relic area, the western area, and the Jinli section.

Upon entering the main gate, you immediately arrive in the relic area, which mainly includes the Hui Mausoleum (the burial site of Liu Bei), the Shrine of Emperor Zhao, Wuhou Shrine, and the Three Loyalty Temples. Although I am not particularly interested in history, I wandered around without following a fixed route, simply to appreciate the ancient architecture restored during the Kangxi period.

The main buildings of Wuhou Shrine are arranged along a central north–south axis: the main gate, the secondary gate, the Liu Bei Hall, the passage hall, the Zhuge Liang Hall, and the Three Loyalty Temple.

Due to the number of visitors, it is often necessary to photograph only those portions above a person’s height.

In the Three Loyalty Temple area, many visitors burn incense and make wishes. As an atheist, I merely observed briefly.

A useful tip for domestic photography is to avoid including too much sky in your shots—the lush green bamboo on the red wall effectively masks the dull sky, and every few steps presents a new composition. This location is truly a photographer’s haven for portraits, even though I was alone.

Chengdu Impressions – Jinli Ancient Street

Adjacent to Wuhou Shrine, Jinli Ancient Street features architecture from the late Qing and early Republican periods. It is usually bustling and quite commercialized, somewhat lacking in an authentic, antiquated charm.

Occasionally, armed paramilitary personnel can be seen on the two-story streets—one might wonder if the area is unsafe. Street performers, numerous souvenir stalls, traditional shadow plays, nostalgic snowman ice treats, and even rickshaws reminiscent of a bygone era all contribute to the atmosphere.

However, I prefer quiet over crowds. I eventually found a small, seemingly traditional and less crowded shop where I enjoyed a bowl of ice jelly. On a hot summer day, sitting alone on a stone step by the street with that refreshing treat was simply delightful.

Admission: Free
Location: Adjacent to Wuhou Shrine
Public Transport: Accessible via city bus routes 1, 10, 57, 82, 301, 334, 335, 503, 521, 901, and 904.

Chengdu Impressions – Du Fu Thatched Cottage

In the winter of 759 AD, Du Fu, fleeing the An Lushan Rebellion, built a thatched cottage by the Huanhua Creek when he arrived in Chengdu and lived there for four years. Over 240 poems were composed during his stay, making the site a “sacred place” in Chinese literary history.

The current ruins of the cottage have preserved the layout as it was reconstructed during the Qing Dynasty’s Jiaqing period. The site features a screened wall, the main gate, the Poetry and History Hall, the timber gate, and other structures aligned along a central axis with symmetrical corridors.

As you wander among the pavilions and landscaped surroundings interwoven with groves, streams, and lotus ponds, you experience not only the tranquil ambiance of Du Fu’s former residence but also a favorite locale for locals engaging in morning exercise and relaxation.

The Gongbu Shrine, the final and most important of the five main sections, commemorates Du Fu – who was once recommended by Yan Wu as an official in the Ministry of Works. In the shrine’s main hall, a statue of Du Fu is enshrined, flanked by stone carvings of renowned poets from the Southern Song and Northern Song dynasties.

The reconstructed thatched cottage, built in 1997 based on Du Fu’s poems, aims to evoke the pastoral charm of his days. Within the park, you may also see a group of photography enthusiasts practicing their craft and even some resident cats enjoying the serene environment.

Admission: 60 RMB per person
Opening Hours: Winter: 8:00–18:00; Summer: 8:00–18:30
Address: No. 28 Caotang Road, Qingyang District, Chengdu, Sichuan Province, China

Chengdu Impressions – Jiangbei Laodao Restaurant

On my first visit to Chengdu, a local accompanied me to experience authentic Chongqing hot pot. Upon entering, the restaurant was filled with an aroma of spicy, numbing flavors. A huge copper pot was immediately set up. Although my friend, concerned about my tolerance for spice, ordered a “mandarin duck” pot (a divided pot with both spicy and mild sections), the mild section was disappointingly small. In Sichuan, opting for a clear broth is almost frowned upon!

The spicy broth was abundant with red oil, floating chili, and Sichuan peppercorns, making for an addictive, mouth-numbing experience. In contrast, the clear broth—though small—was flavored with tomatoes, red dates, scallions, and goji berries for a delicate, fresh taste. Typical ingredients such as soft beef and tender fish were especially delightful.

Authentic Chongqing hot pot is traditionally served not with sesame paste as in Beijing but with a bowl of fragrant oil mixed with scallions, cilantro, and minced garlic. Although I personally prefer sesame paste, one must respect local customs. Dipping spicy duck intestines into the spicy broth further accentuated its flavor.

While prices here tend to be on the higher side, trying authentic Chongqing hot pot for the first time is well worth it.

Address: 113 Wuhouci Street, Wuhou District, Chengdu

Chengdu Impressions – Long Chao Shou

Located on Chunxi Road, Long Chao Shou is a popular spot that offers a wide array of local snacks. If you have limited time in Chengdu, dining here allows you to sample various local specialties. However, do not expect overly refined dishes or astonishing flavors—ice jelly remains my favorite.

Address: No. 9, South Section of Chunxi Road, Jinjiang District, Chengdu, Sichuan Province

Day 1 on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway – Departure from Chengdu to Moxi Town at Hailuo Valley

Early in the morning, two drivers picked up all the passengers, and after a brief meeting, we set off. Our driver, Mr. Zhao, appeared rugged and straightforward at first glance—a demeanor I appreciated for its candor. With over 11 years of experience navigating the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and making numerous round trips each year, he instilled confidence regarding our safety.

Besides myself, our vehicle also carried Ms. Li—a fellow traveler from Beijing whose delicate constitution meant she was cautious about altitude sickness. Ms. Li and I became fast friends, and although she suffered from sleepless nights due to altitude for the first few evenings, she remained cheerful. Also onboard were Mr. Lin and his daughter from Xinjiang, experienced in outdoor travel, and a young, vivacious girl with big, lively eyes. On the second vehicle, our driver, Mr. Gao, tall and soft-spoken, added to the friendly atmosphere.

Throughout the journey, both vehicles communicated via walkie-talkies, creating a cheerful and lively ambiance. Along the way, we stopped at a fruit stall where I purchased the sweetest, most affordable cherries—a purchase I later regretted not buying in larger quantity. I also learned that fruits in Hanyuan are renowned, with many stalls offering delicious and inexpensive produce.

Without noticing, we arrived at Shimi County, where our driver took us to a local restaurant, Shu Xiang Yuan, for a meal. I enjoy dining with groups because the variety of dishes and the convivial atmosphere make the experience even more delightful. Mr. Zhao remarked that along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, nearly every restaurant is run by Sichuan locals—making it hard not to appreciate Sichuan cuisine.

Day 1 on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway – Evening Stroll in Moxi Town

Moxi Town is located 304 kilometers from Chengdu at an elevation of approximately 1,600 meters. As the gateway to Hailuo Valley, we arrived early and, despite the town’s unremarkable appearance, our spirits were high so we decided to explore.

With few vehicles on the quiet streets, I strolled along, observing modest souvenir shops that appeared to be struggling. A stray white dog trotted by playfully, and a little girl peered at me through a crack in a door. Wandering into an old commercial street, I noted that many buildings had been rebuilt—yet I remained fond of the traditional wooden structures.

Even before officially entering Tibet, local vendors began selling barley cakes and yak yogurt—though the flavors did not quite compare to those in the Tibetan region.

The most prominent building in town was a Catholic church visible from almost every direction. Originally built in 1918 and completed in 1922, it even hosted a priest’s residence during 1935 when Mao Zedong and the Red Army were active in the area. The “Moxi Conference” was held here.

As local life in Sichuan is closely intertwined with games such as mahjong, it was no surprise to see residents engaged in a lively game.

Dinner was served at the local homestyle restaurant, “Gongga Impression” (contact: 0836-3266930), where the walls were adorned with cured meat. Although the presentation was modest, the local flavors shone through. Accommodation was available in rooms priced at 100 RMB each, located above the restaurant. Dinner costs ranged from 30 to 50 RMB per person.

Day 2 on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway – Watching the Glacier at Hailuo Valley in the Rain

Early in the morning, I enjoyed a bowl of noodles priced at 10 RMB. The generous owner ensured that extra servings were available if needed. Hailuo Valley in Sichuan is an excellent destination for trekking to view glaciers and for relaxing in natural hot springs. Unfortunately, the weather that day was overcast with persistent drizzle, shrouding the glacier in mist.

Upon arrival at the Hailuo Valley entrance, one must purchase a bus ticket (70 RMB) to enter the park, where an additional entrance fee of 92 RMB is required. The park opens at 7:30 AM; even on clear days, opportunities to capture a sunrise are scarce.

The bus wound along narrow mountain roads, passing through several small settlements. For those wishing to explore Hailuo Valley in depth, staying overnight in one of these towns is an option, albeit with modest accommodations.

The gloomy weather cast a heavy veil of clouds over the peaks, and even the usually imposing monkeys roaming the mountain roads appeared unfazed by passing vehicles. With visibility limited, we opted for a short walk from Camp No. 3 to the edge of the glacier rather than taking a cable car to the highest point, as even the summit offered little in the way of views.

Along the way, we encountered local laborers who, despite their exhaustion, smiled warmly when I asked to take their photo. Their heavy breathing and earnest expressions left a lasting impression.

At one viewpoint, the mist began to clear and the distant snow-capped mountains emerged. At the glacier viewpoint, the vast, dark, and turbulent glacier stretched out before us—it appeared almost as a chaotic mass of rocks unless observed carefully.

The glacier, known as Glacier No. 1 or the “Modern Glacier,” spans 14.4 kilometers with an area of about 23.2 square kilometers. Further inside the park, Glaciers No. 2 and No. 3 rise at even higher altitudes, although we did not venture that far.

As we strolled through the lush surroundings, striking red rocks contrasted vividly against clusters of green trees, while unusual long-haired “tree monsters”—only found in persistently moist environments—captured our attention.

Back at the park entrance, several vendors sold assorted dried fruits. We chose instead to enjoy freshly baked large flatbreads that smelled wonderfully aromatic.

Our entire trek covered 5.8 kilometers in about two and a half hours before we returned to our previous lodging for lunch.

Day 2 on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway – Red Stone Beach

Red Stone Beach, located within the Hailuo Valley scenic area in the Chinese Alpine Botanical Garden, is a must-visit site. Initially, I assumed the red color of the stones was due to a mischievous mineral; however, upon arrival, I learned that the vivid red hue comes from a dense covering of hard, red moss growing on them.

The red stones stretch along the river. Near the parking area, the moss is less pronounced due to the heavy foot traffic, but venturing closer to the riverbank reveals vast expanses of brilliantly red-stoned surfaces—a truly magnificent sight.

The river, fed by glacial melt, shimmers with a blue-green hue. Although the weather was poor, the stark contrast between the lush green mountains in the distance and the red stones along the riverbank evoked a profound sense of nature’s majesty.

A few small stalls near the river sold grilled snacks, their tempting aromas mingling with the cool mountain air—even though we had already had lunch.

At a viewpoint overlooking the red stones from above, the natural scene took on an even more dramatic aspect.

Day 2 on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway – High-Altitude Tibetan Scenery

Departing from Red Stone Beach, our journey continued steadily into the high plateau. The road remained shrouded in mist and low clouds. First, we passed by Yajiagang at 3,830 meters, where only slight symptoms of altitude sickness began to appear among some companions.

As we continued, prayer flags fluttered continuously along the roadside and the distant snow-covered mountains appeared to draw nearer, heightening my anticipation of experiencing authentic Tibetan landscapes.

We then reached Zheduo Mountain Pass at 4,298 meters, marked by a white stupa and fluttering prayer flags that underscored the Tibetan atmosphere.

By dusk, we arrived in Xinduqiao—a locale famous for its grassland vistas and renowned among photographers—although I personally found it rather unremarkable. The lodging here was modestly priced at 120 RMB per room. After a hearty dinner, we strolled through the small town, admiring its unique rural architecture despite the worn-out roads. Friendly elderly Tibetan women on the roadside watched us with curiosity, adding to the charm of the experience.

Day 3 on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway – Traversing Mountains to Enter Tibet

After a warm bowl of noodles to start the day—albeit with a rather heavy pork lard wonton that left me feeling queasy for hours—we set off on what would be a day of bumpy travel. Our journey involved crossing four high mountain passes as the altitude steadily increased on our way to Daocheng.

The first pass was Ga’er Temple Mountain at 4,412 meters. The sky was a clear, translucent blue—a rarity in this region—and many of my companions marveled at the exceptional weather. Prayer flags appeared frequently along the route, a clear sign that we were nearing Tibet.

Lunch was served in a small county called Yajiang, where a modest local restaurant prepared delicious Sichuan dishes. The owner even brewed bitter buckwheat tea—a flavor reminiscent of barley tea—that I adored. I even took some tea with me, searching for it at every restaurant thereafter. Although the altitude soon began to cause headaches and slight dizziness with any physical exertion, the meal helped ease the morning’s greasiness.

In the afternoon, progress was slow. At 4,659 meters, we passed Jianziwan Mountain where a few cyclists were encountered. While I greatly admire their perseverance, I would never attempt such strenuous travel myself.

Shortly thereafter, we joined China’s National Highway 318. In the initial stretch, the well-paved asphalt made for a smooth drive. Along the way, numerous Mani stones—small prayer monuments created by local Tibetans as a form of blessing—came into view. I even noticed several rock piles along the route; in many international hiking trails, similar formations serve both as route markers and symbols of local faith.

At Kazila Mountain, 4,718 meters high, a roadside rest area on National Highway 318 featured a large parking lot filled with tourists either just beginning or concluding their journey along the highway. A group of motorcyclists in distinctive gear caught our attention. They were friendly enough to invite us to pose on one of their bikes, though I regret not taking a group photo with them.

Not far from there, a rudimentary courtyard adorned with fluttering prayer flags and a small temple caught our eye. A group of lamas was seen prostrating in prayer, and upon noticing our curiosity, they kindly invited us to join them in a short ritual. They mentioned that they perform a thousand prostrations every day. Nearby, a few robust horses galloped across an open grassland while other lamas picnicked quietly. Respecting their privacy, we observed from a distance.

After a long day of undulating roads—alternating between stretches of new asphalt that felt heavenly and bumpy dirt roads that rattled continuously—we finally reached Daocheng. Our driver then took us to a local restaurant called “Chuan Yu Old Duck Soup,” where the enticing aroma of duck meat and broth quickly revived our appetites.