Day 8 – Ranwu Lake in the Rain
Today, we drove again to admire the scenery. Although the day promised beautiful views, the weather was extremely uncooperative, and we merely rushed through the attractions. The simple, rustic atmosphere of Valai Village was evident.
At Anjiula Mountain (4475 m), we quickly lost interest—anything below 5000 m fails to impress us. The sky remained gloomy, and the worn prayer flags did little to captivate our senses; after a brief visit, we moved on.
Ranwu Lake was one of today’s key highlights; unfortunately, the weather was too poor. One can only imagine how breathtaking this high-altitude lake at 3850 m would look on a clear day.
Even under cloudy skies, the green meadows and layered distant mountains remain appealing.
A temporary tent had been set up on the lakeside grass where local Tibetans sold yak yogurt and other snacks, providing shelter and a spot to rest and dine.
Numerous yaks grazing near the tent indicated a thriving ecosystem.
From the parking lot, we had to walk along a wooden boardwalk and climb a few steps to reach the viewing platform. Despite the overcast day, we strolled leisurely—though the view of the lake remained somewhat disappointing.
A poem by a visitor was scribbled near the viewing platform, though its placement remains a mystery.
After leaving Ranwu Lake, we passed an unnamed small lake with calm waters and clear reflections.
For further details, please refer to Sichuan-Tibet Ranwu Lake Travel Guide.
Day 8 – Mi Dui Glacier: An Ice Tasting Experience
Mi Dui Glacier is located at the junction of the Nianqing Tangula Mountains and the Borshula Ridge in southeastern Tibet. The main peak rises to 6385 m and the glacier lake sits at 3800 m, classifying it as a monsoonal maritime glacier.
A short drive off National Highway 318 along a rough road—much worse than the highway but easily handled by an off-road vehicle—brought us to Mi Dui Glacier. At the parking lot, the scene was so striking that we joked among ourselves about our antics.
In the rainy weather, we first had a simple bowl of noodles for lunch.
We then paid a 50-yuan entrance fee to hike near the glacier. Despite the poor weather, we strolled slowly toward the glacier along mostly dirt paths—reminding ourselves not to sprint on the high plateau.
Although the glacier is sizable, it could not compare to the beauty of Alaskan glaciers; many of the surrounding snow-capped peaks were hidden by the gloomy sky.
On the murky lake, a few pristine, millennia-old ice blocks floated by. A group of girls even playfully picked up a piece to taste—recalling a similar experience in Alaska, they confirmed it was fine. One layered stone, which could be disassembled or reassembled, was admired by a fellow traveler and taken along.
Despite the dismal weather, everyone laughed and enjoyed themselves. This spot had very few visitors—perhaps due to the weather or its remote location—and I especially love exploring places undisturbed by crowds.
After leaving Mi Dui Glacier, we headed west into Bomi. Beyond the checkpoint, security was as strict as airport screening, with luggage inspected thoroughly.
Along the way, vast fields of rapeseed flowers stretched out before us.
That night, we stayed in Bomi—known as the “oxygen bar of the plateau” or “Jiangnan of Tibet”—at Gesang Hua Hotel, where a standard room cost 180 yuan. Later, we dined at Handsome Guy Restaurant, sampling local specialties like Qianye tofu and Kashara meat, which were quite tasty.
For more insights, please refer to Mi Dui Glacier Hiking Experience Guide.
Day 9 – Playing in Jiangnan Amid Rain and Muddy, Treacherous Roads
As always, we began the day determined to have a hearty breakfast. Our table of four women featured a bowl of porridge, an egg, a large bowl of vinegar, and three steamer baskets of buns (while some neighboring men had only two baskets, we proudly assert our toughness). In addition, Bomi surprisingly offered fried dough sticks to complement the buns.
The weather remained persistently gloomy and rainy, with this downpour lasting for many days. Today, as we needed to cross Tongmai Bridge, we set off early amidst the mist. The dreamlike, rain-soaked scenery of Jiangnan accompanied us, although we never stopped long enough to capture an ideal ink-wash painting.
Even before reaching Tongmai Road, deep puddles had formed. Our experienced charter driver drove straight through the water without slowing down.
Tongmai Bridge is one of the most challenging sections of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. The road is mostly dirt, with sharp curves and steep slopes, and many stretches allow only one vehicle at a time, making traffic jams common. Even veteran drivers can only rely on luck to estimate the crossing time.
At around nine o’clock near Tongmai, we began a long wait. Trucks, limited to 15 tons on the bridge, had to unload and repackage their cargo before crossing—a laborious process. Passenger buses required people and vehicles to cross separately, while small cars navigated more easily.
Amid the traffic jam, we suddenly noticed a sign for a 2-yuan restroom fee—a very shrewd business move.
As we waited, the mountain mists shifted continuously, and we took photos of the changing fog and peaks. When some fellow passengers began carelessly discarding trash from their vehicles, Uncle Lin shouted at them, and soon the littering stopped.
Finally, our turn arrived. After traversing 20 kilometers of treacherous terrain in a tumultuous journey lasting 4 hours and 40 minutes, we suddenly reached a smooth asphalt road where it felt as if we were floating among the clouds.
Immediately after the dangerous section, we passed the majestic Palongzang Bu River. The rushing water was impressive, though the overcast weather diminished its beauty.
Day 9 – A Leisurely Afternoon of Food and Scenery
Once we emerged from the treacherous section, our first priority was to seek out delicious food. We feasted on three steamer baskets of buns, four bowls of chicken with rich chicken soup, and several servings of vegetables that had absorbed the savory broth—everything was absolutely delicious.
Traveling from Chengdu, both accommodation and dining prices had soared. Here, even a small wooden bucket of rice cost 20 yuan—understandable given that cooking rice on the plateau requires a pressure cooker. Noodles typically took about half an hour to cook, and one must never rush the chef, or the dish suffers. Our stone pot chicken for nine cost over 400 yuan.
The restaurant was located near the Lulang Scenic Area, surrounded by lush meadows, beautiful prayer flags, and leisurely cattle and horses, creating a very relaxed atmosphere.
After our filling meal, we strolled through the grasslands. While some chose the thrill of horseback riding, I preferred a gentle walk on the soft meadows, photographing the prayer flags and cattle.
Near the flags, a young couple was taking wedding photos, adding a distinct ethnic flavor.
I have always loved photographing beautiful prayer flags; with a backdrop of blue skies and white clouds, they would be absolutely breathtaking.
Later, we headed toward Linzhi, first crossing Sejila Pass at 4720 m. The scenery was magnificent. Upon arriving in Linzhi, we saw neatly lined military vehicles. After checking into Linzhi Xincheng Business Hotel, we explored local cuisine. That evening, nine of us shared a lamb paomo for 250 yuan at a Shanxi-owned noodle shop; the soup was excellent, though the soaked flatbread was a bit too soft.
Day 10 – “Back to Lhasa” Echoes in My Ears
For breakfast, we switched from our usual hearty bun feast because we once again spotted fried dough sticks—soy milk with fried dough sticks is my favorite.
Xiuba Old Fort, the oldest and best-preserved fortress complex in Tibet, did not feel dramatically different from descriptions online that liken it to an ancient battlefield.
At the parking lot, a few little pigs curiously gathered around my camera. A small suspension bridge in Saewo Village exuded a charming rural vibe, and a rickety wooden bridge with fluttering prayer flags allowed people to cross slowly—caution is advised for those afraid of heights.
The central boulder in the midst of the turbulent Niyang River—a large rock amid the raging canyon—was said to hold significant Buddhist symbolism as a guardian stone for nearby villages.
At noon, we arrived in Jinda Town and dined at Mianyang Restaurant, savoring delicious Sichuan cuisine.
In the afternoon, as the weather cleared briefly, we took detailed close-up shots.
We reached Mira Mountain, the final high peak before Lhasa, at 5013 m. Unlike the barren mid-section of the highway, even before we got off the vehicle, Tibetan children gathered and asked if we wanted to hang prayer flags for blessings. Countless new flags densely covered the mountains; it seemed many visitors were praying for family and friends. However, I was not fond of the commercialization of blessings—as Lhasa drew nearer, local Tibetans appeared less genuine.
Approaching Lhasa, we first passed the Lhasa River. Our driver sped along within the speed limit, and we played by the river as the phrase “Back to Lhasa” adorned our car. Under the blue sky, we began to feel the allure of Tibet.
Lhasa Bits – An Introduction
After more than a month in Tibet, my memories had somewhat faded—but my time in Lhasa, the heart of Tibet, remains vivid. Lhasa is the gathering place for all who long for Tibet, whether you travel by bike, car, charter, train, or plane. No matter which route you take into Tibet, Lhasa is always your starting or ending point.
After over ten days on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, Lhasa became a very comfortable resting spot. Its weather is as changeable as ever—on gloomy days I seek a place for cool tea, and on clear days I carry my tripod to take photos.
Lhasa exudes a laid-back vibe; you can always find a tea house to enjoy a cup of tea. Perhaps due to the high altitude, people explore the city at a slower pace.
There isn’t much new to say about the famous attractions, so I will update further details about the places I visited later. There is no shortage of dining options—even if Tibetan cuisine isn’t everyone’s favorite, I follow local customs and sample it. I even dedicate entire sections to food.
Regarding safety, despite my family’s warnings before the trip, Lhasa feels very secure. The entire Sichuan-Tibet Highway is guarded by armed police, and in Lhasa, plainclothes officers are common. Minor incidents are diffused within seconds, so traveling alone in Lhasa at night is safe. As our charter driver said, “There are only three roads to Lhasa—once you pass the checkpoints, if you commit a crime, you won’t get far.”
A final tip: always be prepared for both rain and sun. The weather here is unpredictable—a sudden downpour may be followed by clear skies. Always carry a raincoat or, more conveniently, a windbreaker.
Lhasa Bits – Tibetan Tea Houses
I never truly understood Tibetan food culture until I experienced it firsthand. Many complain about Tibetan cuisine—I found it rather average—but I persisted in eating it daily to better understand local life.
Sweet tea and butter tea are integral to Tibetan daily life. Butter tea, made by mixing extracted butter from cow or yak milk with tea bricks and salt, provides energy at high altitudes and is said to help alleviate altitude sickness. However, its taste isn’t for everyone—much like Beijing’s fermented mung bean juice, adored by some and repulsive to others. Personally, after a few sips, I grew accustomed to it.
Compared to butter tea, I prefer sweet tea, which resembles milk tea and mainly consists of tea bricks, milk, and sugar. Perhaps because of the local water quality or purer milk, it tastes much better than regular milk tea. I recall during my travels in India, a friend’s mother made the most delicious milk tea every morning; even when I later tried to replicate it, I could never recapture that special flavor.
Visiting tea houses is a cherished part of Tibetan life; at any time of day, you can see groups of Tibetans sitting on benches, drinking tea and chatting.
Lhasa Bits – The Awe of the Potala Palace, a Cultural Heritage Marvel
Designated as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1994, the Potala Palace sits atop Maburishan (Red Mountain) in the northwest of Lhasa. Built by Songtsen Gampo during his 33rd reign, it is a massive fortress complex that served as the winter residence for successive Dalai Lamas and as the political and religious center of Tibet, housing countless treasures.
The palace, built into the mountainside, stands 117.2 m high, is 360 m long and 140 m wide—almost dominating the entire hilltop. After passing security, visitors gather outside the palace wall, where Tibetans spin prayer wheels and pray. No admission fee is required for this outer area, which also features snack and souvenir shops.
Entering through the first gate, you reach the outer buildings—known as the “Snow City”—which once housed stables, warehouses, and even prisons. This area offers excellent views of the palace exterior.
A guide once explained that the white, uneven walls were created by splashing a mixture of milk, water, lime, and sugar on them—a method that is hard to fathom. The red sections were made from boiled white horse grass for insect resistance and breathability, while the black curtains were crafted from high-quality yak hair.
After the second gate, photography inside is prohibited. Many tour groups follow their guides, listening to both true and apocryphal stories. Regardless of differing opinions on Tibetan Buddhism, the murals, beams, pagodas, and statues inside the palace are profoundly moving and evoke a sense of sacredness.
The main complex includes the Red Palace (housing relic pagodas of the Dalai Lamas), the White Palace (the living quarters), and the yellow Zha Xia on the west. For example, the pagoda for the Fifth Dalai Lama is 6 m high and covers 725.7 m² with 44 large wooden columns—the largest in the palace. A plaque above the Dalai Lama’s throne, written by Emperor Qianlong, adds to its majesty.
Visitors often toss coins for blessings; odd-numbered coins are considered auspicious. Devotees may also press their foreheads, mouths, and hearts while silently chanting “Om Mani Padme Hum.”
Lhasa Bits – Capturing the Potala Palace: Spinning and Photographing
During my days in Lhasa, I had no fixed itinerary and took every opportunity to wander around the Potala Palace. I captured images from every angle—inside and outside, during sunrise and sunset, and of its reflections in the water. The cost was having to rush after the sunset around 9 p.m., when finding good food became difficult.
I photographed at several locations:
Location 1: Outside the Palace Wall – Devotees spin prayer wheels along the outer wall, a sacred practice for Tibetan pilgrims. I sat by the railing (lacking a wide-angle lens, I leaned against it to capture the full view) and waited for a particularly devout individual. An elderly man smiled at me without knowing what I was doing, and I quietly joined in by donating a coin.
Location 2: Yaowang Hill – Located opposite the Potala Palace, this hill is popular among photographers for capturing sunrise and sunset views. After a small fee, you can climb to its platform and set up your tripod. In the brief clear spell during the evening, sunlight illuminated the palace wall with a touch of blue sky in the background, creating a stunning scene. At night, the illuminated palace becomes Lhasa’s shining jewel.
Location 3: The Main Square – The square in front of the palace, separated by Beijing Middle Road, offers numerous angles. On our first evening in Lhasa, we arrived just as a heavy rain began and captured the breathtaking sunset over the palace. Although I initially shot handheld, I later always carried a tripod. The square also features a Peace Liberation Monument and an evening fountain display—ideal for photographing reflections.
Location 4: Zongjialukang Park – Situated behind the palace, this park is filled with lush flora. In the early morning, locals practice square dancing here. A leisurely stroll reveals some of the best angles for capturing the Potala Palace.
Location 5: Lao Yu Dining Area – Although I did not visit this spot due to time constraints, friends have mentioned that from the restaurant upstairs, one can capture nighttime views of the palace through the window.
Lhasa Bits – A Serene Visit to Jokhang Temple
Jokhang Temple is another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Tibet and one of the most revered Tibetan Buddhist temples. In the morning, the area around Jokhang is filled with devout pilgrims walking clockwise along Barkhor Street, prostrating every few steps as they measure their spiritual journey.
By afternoon, the temple becomes quiet and peaceful. While many visitors come to pray, the calm and ancient atmosphere of Jokhang Temple leaves a lasting impression.
Entering through the side door, I observed many worshippers in prayer. The temple, with over a thousand years of history, is one of the most magnificent surviving structures from the Tubo period and the oldest timber-framed building in Tibet.
Wandering through its halls, the absence of the imposing aura of the Potala Palace allowed me to fully appreciate its serene beauty.
